Malteco Reserva Añeja 10 Suave de Panama

Owner

Manufacturer:

Savio s.r.l.

Price approx:

20

Origins

Terroir:

Panama

Regulations:

not specified

Classification

Style:

spanish

Gargano:

single modernist rum
raw material

Raw material:

sugar cane honey

distillation

Distillation:

column still

aging

Aging:

10 years in ex-bourbon white oak casks, solera

sugar added

Sugar added:

16-18

alcohol by volume

Alcohol by volume:

40%

additives

Additives:

caramel

Pretext

Using internet search engines I wasn't able to determine the origin of the parent Malteco rum distillery. It was the Guatemalan Industrias Licoreras de Guatemala initially, also known as Licorera Quezalteca, although in 2011 production moved to Panama. Since then Caribbean Spirits Panama Distillery and/or Bodegas de America are mentioned, however you won't find them in the reliable register. Some reviewers argue that the rum comes from Varela Hermanos.


Let's give that thesis a provisional acceptance. Even if Ron Abuelo's producer occasionally receives criticisms, it drowns in a sea of praises. Perhaps that recognizability is the rub, because if it turned out that Malteco has the same pedigree, what would otherwise justify its existence?


I suppose it's legitimate to seek answers in the official brochure. The very first sentence get us to the right track, because  "Ron Malteco [...] is the skillful outcome of Maestros Roneros' ancient art, who have handed down the formula of a superb blend". I believe that the 'ancient formula' has been passed down since ancient times and the very beginning of the brand in anno domini 2003. And further, the brand personality is supposed to reflect the following characteristics: "young, easygoing, joyful, vibrant, colorful, light, modern, attractive, intriguing" so that the customer ultimately associates the product with: "green, hills, forest, nature, quetzal bird, wings, freedom, balance, adventure, party, music".


I admit that I can easily identify with the' young, easygoing, joyful' consumer. However the question arises, to what extent the above-mentioned list correlates with my subjective perception of the Malteco rum bottle? Indeed, the line and typography were styled Mesoamerican. I can also recognize the contours of a bird, though not at first glance. Maybe because the quetzal seems still an ornithological puzzle for me. Alright, I would be inclined to find the facade intriguing.


Whereas the lack of transparency is overwhelmingly irritating. How to verify the producer's declarations when the operating distillery remains hidden? Easy, just trust and hope that the confidence in the manufacturer has not been misplaced. Although faith and knowledge are not necessarily the same, philosophically and somewhat pretentiously speaking. Moreover, information asymmetry creates real and systemic potential for abuse.

Procedure

A decade ago, the rum was manufactured in Guatemala; based on 12-24 hour fermentation, using sugar cane honey and column distillation (Column Still). The white oak ex-bourbon casks were aged at an altitude of 2300 mamsl.


Nowadays, we know as much as the manufacturer discloses, namely that the product has been distilled and aged in Panama, apparently in line with the guidelines but not directly by the Savio family (brand owner). They handle storage, bottling and logistics. What caught my attention is the following statement: "The ageing specified on the label indicates the minimum rum ageing". It's puzzling given the use of the solera method and product placement in an exceptionally low price range. Finally, the product has been colored with caramel and sweetened 16-18 g/L.

Aroma
Dominated by a delicate vanilla fragrance with marked floral notes and wooden accents.
— as they tell
Mango, figs. Vanilla sweet cream.
— as examined by RumExam
Taste
Bouquet was not officially specifed.
Toffee, dried plum.
— as examined by RumExam
Afterburn
Bouquet was not officially specifed.
Cinammon, plum compote.
— as examined by RumExam
⁖Reviewed on: September 12th, 2022